Bob's Stick FAQ
Bob's Stick FAQ
What length of stick do I need?
Can you recommend a good book on stickmaking?
If you made a stick to my requirements, how much would it cost?
What payment methods do you accept?
How much do you charge for shipping?
Can you recommend a (UK) supplier for horn/antler?
What finish do you use on your sticks?
Do you make canes? What length of stick do I need? Answer: This depends on the sort of stick and what you are going to use it for. As a rough guide, a stick used as a mobility aid should come to about hip
height (measured to the part of the handle where the palm of the hand rests).
There should be just a slight bend in the elbow: any more will place too much
strain on the elbow, while any less will place too much strain on the wrist.
You should be able to put your weight on the stick without raising or lowering
your shoulder. For the hiker or country-person, a market or Cardigan stick should come up to
about the level of your navel. This will make the stick long enough for leaning
on, but short enough to swing it as you walk. A thumbstick should come to about armpit level, measured to the notch in the
handle, where your thumb rests. However, we come in all sorts of shapes as well as sizes, so these can only be
approximate indications. Remember that any craftsman stickmaker will make his sticks according to the
length of the material available - there's no point in cutting them shorter
before sale and losing tall customers. This means you should never reject a
stick out of hand for being "too long". To try out a longer stick all you need
is a box to stand on or a convenient stairway. It amazes me the number of
people who, having had all this explained to them will still, on feeling
attracted to one of my sticks, pick it out of the rack, then say "No, it's too
long", put it back again and move on. The following contribution is from Antonio Fernandez, Founder-Archbishop of the
Independent Buddhists of America and acting minister of the Progressive
Universal Life Church. Antonio has Multiple Sclerosis and offers this advice to
those suffering from similar disorders of the central nervous system: "People afflicted with various nervous system disorders often require a walking
aid. Most generally, the aid is meant to assist in gait, balance and
coordination. Some use it to reconnoiter uncertain terrain before they step
onto it. Such a staff is not meant as a support, as in orthopaedic support, or
for particular injuries from the waist downward. Thus, taller staffs, ranging
from 38 inches to over 50 inches, are ideal. The first clear benefit of such a stick is in climbing and descending stairs.
Secondly, such a stick is ideal for helping mount and dismount buses, cars,
etc. When we have a difficulty with balance, coordination, and the like, where
do our arms reach to? Certainly not to the waist! We tend to thrust our arms
out to somewhere between rib-cage level and chest level. That should be one's
chief staff-height guide. Never forget materials and construction... a stick that is 1 inch in diameter
may be pretty but may not serve in the field. Think more along the lines of at
least 1 1/4 inches. Choose a good, sturdy wood, good grain and nice finish. If
you must have a decoration at the top of your staff, be sure it is functional.
Even a tall staff will occasionally require grasping from the top! Do beware of
carvings of silly things onto the stick. These may catch your clothing or the
clothing of others, not to mention any passing misanthropic dog." Question: Can you recommend a good book on stickmaking? Answer: Whether you are thinking of having a go at making your own sticks, or just want
to gain some knowledge of the processes involved, one book stands head and
shoulders above the rest. This is the "Stickmaking Handbook" by Andrew Jones
and Clive George. It gives clear and well-presented instructions taking the
reader through the production of the main types of stick in a logical
progression from a simple knobstick to a fancy carved ram's horn stick. There
are plenty of excellent photographs and drawings clearly illustrating every
aspect of the work. The Stickmaking Handbook is published by the Guild Of
Master Craftsmen Publications (ISBN 1-86108-126-X). Just do a Web search on
"stickmaking" and you will find most of the top results are pointing to
suppliers of this book. Bear in mind, though, that each stickmaker has his/her own preferred methods.
Those used by Jones & George are typical of many, but as one gains
experience, one may find other ways of doing a particular job that are better
suited to your particular needs. I would recommend that having become familiar with the Jones and George
techniques, one should then get hold of "Walking & Working Sticks" by the
late Theo Fossell (published by The Apostle Press, ISBN 1-869988-01-9 paperback
or 1-869988-00-0 hardback). Theo was perhaps not the greatest of stickmakers
himself, but his passion for the craft led him to acquire a deep knowledge of
the subject. This book passes on some older techniques that offer interesting
alternatives to J&G. In particular, Theo's method of pressing and shaping
ram's horn may inspire some modification of the J&G technique, especially
with "difficult" horns. Overall, the presentation in Walking & Working Sticks is not up to the
standard of the Stickmaking Handbook, and it wouldn't really be possible to
make a decent stick from the rather sparse instructions given, but it does
provide a good deal of useful information for anyone interested in walking
sticks. One must appreciate that any book can only tell you so much. If you follow the
instructions in the Stickmaking Handbook, you will produce a passable stick. But you won't produce a really good stick until you have acquired certain skills that are not easily explained in
writing: how to use rasps, files and abrasives to produce a round, symmetrical
and correctly aligned shape without creating hollows in the material; how to
get perfect mating surfaces on the joint; what to do when things don't quite
work out as planned... There are a myriad little points that bridge the gap
between theory and practice. There is really no substitute for learning your
skills under the hands-on guidance of an experienced stickmaker. But don't let
that stop you having a go!
How should I hold a stick? Answer: This isn't actually a "frequently-asked question" - but it should be! Quite
apart from anything else, it's a very significant factor in determining how
long the stick should be, which has to be the most frequently asked question of
all. Most people don't give enough thought to how they should hold a stick; give
them a market stick and they will grasp it with their fist closed in a
death-grip around the crown of the handle with the nose facing towards them.
This is not a good idea - the grip is too rigid and lacks control; it's rather
uncomfortable, and subjects the stick to unnecessarily high bending forces.
Better by far to place the hand near the heel of the handle, where the weight
is transmitted straight down the shank with virtually no bending force applied.
It's a matter of personal preference whether the nose points towards or away
from you. Myself, I prefer the latter. My advice to anyone trying out any sort of stick is to approach it with an open
mind. For anything other than a thumbstick or staff, start by placing the open
palm of the hand on the top of the handle, with the hand as near directly over
the shank as is comfortable. Now just let the fingers curl round the handle
comfortably. Only two or three fingers will go round the crown; the thumb and
forefinger will probably lie along the crown or (holding the stick the other
way round) down the neck. This is fine - it gives a comfortable grip with much
improved control. An added bonus is that this allows you to let the stick slide
through your hand as you swing it forward; it feels good and it adds a nice
rhythm as you stride down a country lane or footpath.
Do you make spoons? Answer: No, I make walking sticks.
Do you make shoehorns? Answer: No, I make walking sticks.
Can you make me a nice ram's horn stick for my
husband's/wife's/father's/mother's birthday next Tuesday? Short Answer: No. Longer Answer:
Do you make riding crops? Answer: No, I make walking sticks.
If you made a stick to my requirements, how much would it cost? Answer: Quite a bit more than the sticks for sale on my Website. The sticks you see for sale here have been made from whatever materials I
happen to have available (of adequate quality for the job). I have created
these sticks as the fancy takes me, trying out an idea here, practising my
techniques there, doing what I feel like doing, putting the work aside and
picking it up again when I feel like it. I could charge more for many of these
sticks, but I'm really doing this sort of work just for the enjoyment I get out
of it. Commissioned work is another matter. To create a stick precisely to a client's
requirements takes a good deal of time and effort to ensure the very best
results. The factors involved include: Question: Stop hedging, Bob, how much would it cost? Answer: Fair comment, but do I have to be a bit flexible on this. The cost of the best quality materials can vary considerably. This week, I
might be able to buy good blackthorn shanks for n pounds. Then next week, along
comes a customer who wants a blackthorn stick, but all the shanks from that
batch are too short for this particular job, so I end up paying 4n pounds plus
postage for a one-off. That's a big difference. Both rams' horn and buffalo
horn can be very difficult to obtain at any price and the quality can be very
variable. A "difficult" ram's horn can take me a couple of weeks longer to work
than an ideally-shaped one, and this all needs to be taken into account. I can give a rough indication, but please bear in mind these are "ball park"
figures only and are subject to variation according to the current availability
& cost of materials and the amount of work involved. The fact is that I would never be able to charge enough to repay me for the
time and effort I put into making a stick. It could take 200 hours of my time
to make a fancy ram's horn stick. That works out to about 50 pence per hour
after taking into account the cost of materials and overheads! Click here for my
What payment methods do you accept? Answer: I can now accept payments by credit card via PayPal. This avoids all the problems involved in handling payments from overseas, but I
would prefer customers in the UK to pay by cheque, as I do have to pay fees on
payments received through PayPal.
I can also accept International Money Orders made payable in Pounds Sterling
(GBP). I cannot accept cheques/checks drawn on any bank outside the UK, nor any form
of payment in US dollars, Euros, or any other foreign currency. Since my sticks are all individual, all different and quite unique, it is
essential that you email me before attempting to make payment, to ensure the
item is still available and to establish the correct amount for
postage/shipping.
Why pounds sterling? Answer: Because that's what we use here in the UK. I can't buy groceries with dollars, roubles, zloty, yen, or even euros, and I
can't pay them into my bank without incurring additional bank charges on
conversion. Exchange rates vary, but the cost of making a stick is fixed on
placing the order, and that's the amount I need to recoup. If you're in the
USA, you will find the current banker's exchange rate is in the order of $1.7 to the pound, so for an approximate
guide, add about 60% to the figures in pounds to get the price in dollars.
How much do you charge for shipping? Answer: This depends on the size/weight of the stick and where it's going. For the UK, a short, lightweight stick will cost £6 GBP (including packaging) by
Recorded Delivery post. A longer stick may have to go by Parcel Force and can
cost up to £10 GBP. Note that packaging costs can be a significant factor. A simple knobstick will
fit inside a recycled heavy-duty cardboard tube, while for anything with a
wider handle I have to use a custom-made box which costs me over £3 GBP.
(Either way, I can assure you the stick will be securely packed and very well
protected against the worst the postal services can throw at it). For deliveries outside the UK I use FedEx. They are not the cheapest, but I
find their service excellent. Shipping a stick to the USA will cost in the
order of £47 GBP (including packaging). The length of the stick will make more
of a difference than the weight. Update December 2003 - I have been trying out a cheaper international service
offered by PostVan.com. Having shipped several items to the USA over the past month or two with no
problems, I intend to continue using their services. With insurance and
packaging, shipping to the USA works out to about £35 GBP.
Do you mount antlers? Answer: No, I make walking sticks.
I have looked at your Website and think your sticks would be an ideal product
for us to market. Blah, blah, blah. Answer: I don't answer spam emails. Neither do I make sticks by the thousand. I can
assure you that despite what you say, WalMart would not be interested in my
"product", and I am certainly not interested in them. I make two or three
totally unique and unrepeatable sticks every month. I sell two or three of
them every month. It brings in a little pocket money and keeps me occupied. I
am very happy with this state of affairs and I don't spend any money on
marketing. Now, what exactly do you think you can do to improve on that?
I make knives/shoehorns/spoons/netsuke/longbows. Can you recommend a (UK)
supplier for horn/antler? Answer: Yes. Martin Hyslop, The Highland Horn Company Ltd. (formerly The Hillend Horn Company Ltd), Taigh
Na Corrach, Knockmuir Brae, Avoch, Easter Ross, IV9 8RD, UK Mailto: Telephone: +44 (0)1381 622488 (Mobile: 0774 810 5415) Or: Dafydd Davies: Fron-Villa, Llandewi Brefi, Nr Tregaron, Ceredigion, Mid Wales SY25 6RS Telephone: 01974 298 566 (evenings preferably). You might also try: Chiltern Country Supplies, in Reading, Berkshire: Telephone: 01189 472936
What finish do you use on your sticks? Answer: On wooden handles I start with several applications of boiled linseed oil, the
number depending on the nature of the wood. On some wood, such as box, this may
be all that's needed, and it will polish up to a hard, lustrous finish. Most
types of wood, however, will benefit from a further (very thin) coat or two of
Tru-Oil. This is sold as a gunstock oil and is really a very high quality quick
drying oil varnish. I never use any other sort of varnish on a stick handle - a
handle finished with a conventional polyurethane/yacht varnish just doesn't
slide comfortably through the fingers. Gunstock oil is designed to make a
wooden gun stock feel comfortable and protect it from sweaty hands, as well as
enhancing its appearance, so it's just what we need. On stick shanks, I also start off with several applications of boiled linseed
oil. Again, some wood, particularly blackthorn, will occasionally polish up
nicely and needs no further finishing. However, most will benefit from the
Tru-Oil treatment. If a stick is to be subjected to particularly rough usage,
or if the bark is rather delicate, I will finish the shank with yacht varnish,
using many coats applied very thinly. This gives a thicker, glass-like finish.
I'm not really too keen on this myself as it has an air of artificiality which
to my mind
doesn't sit well with the natural rustic character of a stick. A horn handle (either buffalo or ram) requires no additional finish. The
surface is buffed to a high gloss and any applied coating will only detract
from its appearance. Antler may also be left in its natural state, but I like
to apply a quick lick of boiled linseed oil to get a better shine.
I see some of your sticks have steel reinforcement in the handle. Will you be
doing this on the stick you're making for me? Answer: Not necessarily. This is only really needed where the short end-grain of the wood runs across
the stressed part of the handle, e.g. the crown of a market stick, or when
using burr wood, which is often full of small holes (or sometimes with spalted
wood, which can be rather soft in places). The holes are a common feature of
burr wood; any which appear on the surface I fill with epoxy resin, any in the
neck will tend to fill with the epoxy adhesive used to glue up the joint with
the shank and will be reinforced by the hardwood dowel and stainless steel rod
insert which I use to make the joint. You might wonder why we use a piece of wood with the grain running that way,
but the fact is that, given the shape of a market stick handle, a
straight-grained piece of wood will always have the grain running in the
"wrong" direction at some point in the handle. We therefore take this as it
comes and try to cut the handle blank to give the most attractive appearance.
Besides, if we take a piece of wood 8" square, we get two handle blanks out of
it, with the grain running in opposite directions.
Do you make canes? Answer: I'm tempted to answer "No, I make walking sticks". However, the correct answer
is "Please define 'cane'". Here in the UK, the term 'cane' is generally used to refer to a short, slim,
stick - usually having a shank made of some sort of cane (often malacca or
partridge cane) or bamboo - or to a slim rod of similar material (formerly?)
used to administer punishment to schoolchildren. The word seems to have a
different usage in the USA, encompassing walking sticks made out of any
material. I haven't yet made any sticks using a cane shank, but if I come across a
supplier I might be tempted to give it a try.
This page last updated Wednesday, 13 December 2006