Welcome to
Walking sticks, market sticks, thumbsticks, crooks and staffs hand-crafted in
wood, horn and
antler by stickmaker Bob Goddard, now in West Yorkshire, UK. 
Follow the links above to see examples of my work and learn more about the materials and processes involved. This will give you some idea of what I can do and how much a decent stick costs.
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My stickmaking activities are now shut down while I get settled into my new home in Halifax, West Yorkshire. There is (inevitably) more work to be done on the house than I had originally bargained for, and it will take a couple of months before I can even start to think about setting up my workshop. This will involve some damp-proofing work in the basement and creating a level working area on the sloping floor in the garage, so I don't see myself getting back into stickmaking mode until well into the summer. Update 24 September 2006: Well, so much for that theory! I can't go into all the gory details here, but a relatively minor bit of structural work needs to be done before I can start setting up my workshop. Unfortunately, this can't be put in hand until a dispute with my surveyor has been resolved - so I'm still sitting here twiddling my thumbs. :-( Update 27 November 2006: Still no progress to report. Thumb-twiddling continues. Update 13 December 2006: Still no progress. Meanwhile I have changed my ISP and my Web hosting providers. This all seems to have gone smoothly, but it does mean I no longer have access to PlusNet's "My Circular" newsletter management tool. In fact my newsletter never really got off the ground as, what with everything else going on, I never had time to compose a proper newsletter anyway. Sorry, folks - I'm now removing that page, but if and when I do have any time on my hands I will try to find an alternative way of setting it up. Update 05 January 2008: The saga continues. Over the past year I've had quite a bit of work done on the house, much of it unrelated to my stickmaking activities. Currently I'm waiting for the Council to mend the pavement outside my garage so that the new garage doors can be adjusted to keep out the rain. This should have taken place before Christmas, but like everything else it's all taking far longer than it ought to. However, once the garage doors have been sorted out it will then be down to me to deal with any remaining problems and start creating my workshop. It's bound to take several more months, but I am hopeful that I will be up and running again some time this year! |
All sticks are for sale except where stated. On request I can cut most sticks down to suit the user. Making them longer is a bit more difficult! If
you're interested in a particular stick, just drop me an email at
Buying a stick without seeing and handling it in Real Life is not ideal if you mean to use it for its intended purpose. However, my sticks, particularly the less conventional ones, do seem to be attracting the attention of collectors, who often don't need to have the stick cut to a specific size. If you want to purchase a stick by post, I'll be happy to oblige and will advise on how to determine the correct length if needed. However, if I cut a stick to a customer's own measurements, this will be entirely at their own risk.
Note that most of my sticks pictured on this site are shown without ferrules. This doesn't mean they will be supplied without ferrules! I fit all my sticks with top-quality steel-tipped brass ferrules after they have been cut down to size (think about it).
| Photos taken by Dr Nicol Murray at Stockwood Park Craft Museum, Luton, where I
was assisting with his stickmaking demonstration. |
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Many people see a walking stick as merely an orthopaedic device; something only to be used by the elderly or infirm, a utilitarian aid to be employed only in the last resort then discarded as soon as possible. The hiker, casual walker, shepherd, farmer or other country person knows better. A good walking stick, well made and carefully designed for the user's particular purpose as well as its aesthetic qualities, quickly becomes a constant companion, a joy to use, and something to be appreciated and admired. When out walking, a good stick is more than just a piece of wood to stop you falling over. A well-balanced and comfortable stick helps maintain the natural rhythm of your gait and seems to make the miles less fatiguing. At the same time it comes in handy for pushing aside brambles and nettles; hooking over tree roots to help you scramble up a bank; or fending off flocks of kamikaze geese. (For some reason, I find the most aggressive goose will back off if you just wave a stick at it). A stick can help steady your aim with gun, binoculars, telescope or camera. A shepherd, of course, will use his stick to help control his sheep and signal to his dog, while a reluctant sheep can be hooked and captured with a proper crook. The farmer uses his market stick to move animals around in their pens to get a better look at them, to point out their good or bad points (depending whether he's buying or selling), to lean on while yarning with his friends, to signal his bid to the auctioneer, or to emphasise his point when seeing unwelcome visitors off the farm - especially that nutter waving a stick at his geese!
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William McGonagall, Poet and Tragedian. |
If anyone were to write a book of "101 Things To Do With A Stick", they would have no trouble compiling the sequel "101 More things To Do With A Stick"!
I guess it's true that many of us will become infirm sooner or later and have a need for some sort of walking aid. But let this be an excuse to acquire something we enjoy using, something that looks good, feels good and makes others almost envious of our condition, at least as an excuse to be seen about town with a good-looking walking stick.
Good walking sticks don't happen by accident. They don't grow on trees, you know! They have to be designed and crafted by someone who has the skills to turn the raw materials into a thing of beauty - one which precisely fits both the user and the use to which it will be put.
Recent years have seen the introduction of the "hiking pole", hailed as a new invention developed from the poles used by skiers. In fact, there's nothing new about it at all, it's simply a metal or composite fibre walking stick. Its main selling feature is that it's adjustable for length and can be collapsed when not in use. Well, it's not exactly a thing of beauty, so I guess it needs to be hidden away. It lacks that indefinable individual character of a real stick, at one with both its owner and the environment in which it is being used. The hiking pole is an artefact of modern industrial society that marks out the user as a foreign body in the rural landscape. As for its adjustability, I must concede this can be handy for those who can't be bothered to select a stick of the correct size and style and alter their grip to suit the terrain.
You can also buy factory made sticks quite cheaply. I've seen some quite nice ones lately, but of course, by their nature, they are mass-produced items machine-made from bland and uninteresting materials and poorly finished with a quick spray of lacquer. They also tend to be made on the short side, so that most people can pick one out of the rack and use it, after a fashion, without having it cut to size. As for the traditional mass-produced steam-bent ash or chestnut orthopaedic walking stick, the less said the better. They are clumsy, plug-ugly and suffer from serious design faults. Firstly, the bending process flattens the handle into an uncomfortable shape to grip, and secondly the bend is unstable. At the slightest hint of damp weather, it starts to straighten out. Take a look in any second hand shop and you will see a sorry looking bundle of these things lurking in a dark corner with their handles distorted into unusable shapes.
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See what I mean? |
A real traditional stick is different. The shank will be made from a straight stem of hazel, blackthorn, ash, chestnut, holly or other wood having the right characteristics of size, strength, stiffness, weight, balance and attractive appearance. The wood will have been thoroughly seasoned and carefully selected, discarding pieces that don't come up to scratch. Typically, hazel is best left to season for two years, while blackthorn and holly can take up to seven years. The handle will be fashioned from a suitable hardwood, carefully selected to complement the shank, or from antler or horn. These traditional materials each have their different characteristics, requiring different and sometimes quite arcane techniques to turn them into a good-looking, comfortable, strong and durable stick. There are different traditional shapes of stick to suit the many and varied requirements of different types of user. Crooks, market sticks, thumbsticks, Cardigan sticks, knobsticks, "walker" sticks, wading poles and other types each have their uses. For my own use, I keep a burr elm handled market stick for use around town and mooching around country fairs, markets and car boot sales; a slightly shorter, round-shouldered, rams horn handled market stick for general country walking; and I've recently taken to using a thumbstick for downland walking, where the extra length can be handy on occasions.
It has to be said that not all handmade sticks are equal. I have seen some truly dreadful examples at craft fairs which have clearly been thrown together by someone who has never learnt the finer points of stickmaking and has no appreciation of how a stick should look or feel. At the other end of the scale are superb works of perfection, created with mind-boggling precision with the sole aim of collecting prizes at stick shows. Such sticks, if they are offered for sale, will cost you several arms and legs and leave you afraid to use them in case of scratching them or getting them dirty. They are also not necessarily the most comfortable in use, especially if they are embellished with ornate carvings. I greatly admire the talents involved in creating such works of art, but on the whole I prefer not to go down that path myself. My first priority in making any stick is that it must be well-balanced and comfortable in use. Secondly, that it should be pleasing to the eye and suffer no obvious fault in its design, construction or finish. I think that's enough to be going on with.
Just remember: every hand-made stick is unique, one of a limited edition of just one. Since every piece of wood I use is different and my sticks are made by eye and judgment rather than by measurement, it would be impossible for me to make two identical sticks, even if I tried. The wood tells me by the curl of its grain and by the position, shape and size of its knots and knobbles, what shape it wants to be. I have an image of what shape I want it to be. The shaping process, mostly carried out with simple files, rasps and abrasives, is a two-way dialogue between myself and the piece of wood. During these negotiations, I will "win" some points and concede others in order to bring out the best in the wood. The result, hopefully, will be a stick that expresses a harmonic union of these points of view.
I started making sticks properly in September 1999 under the eagle-eyed tutelage of Dr Nicol Murray at evening classes in Luton, Bedfordshire, and quickly found that I had some natural talent in the craft. Any survivors of this course will have acquired a great deal of practical wisdom of the kind you can't learn from books - along with a long list of entries in Nick's infamous List Of People Who Owe Me Beers and a considerably broadened vocabulary. Nick is one of a kind, a great guy and always ready to help out a fellow stickmaker. Anyone in the Herts/Beds/Bucks area who's interested in joining one of his excellent courses should contact me for his details.
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Dr Nicol Murray |
Like Nick and most of the other good friends I've met on his courses, I'm now a member of the BSG, which is not an unmentionable disease, but the British Stickmaker's Guild. If you're interested in stickmaking or collecting, you should seriously consider joining. They now have a Web-site at
http://www.thebsg.org.uk/
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This page last updated Saturday 05 January 2008